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Picture Framing glass is thinner than window glass, so please do not use window glass in an attempt to save money on framing - the thicker glass will not fit the small lip or 'rabbit' which holds the glass in the frame.
When To Use Glass if you have artwork on paper without a varnish or type of varnish or any type of laminate, and you want to protect it, use a sheet of glass. If you have needlework, textiles, you may also want to use glass. Oil paintings, arcylic paintings, ceramics, wax resist, paper that is varnished, canvas prints and photos with a varnish do not need glass. You may also use plexi glass, but be aware that plexi scratches easily and you might need a special cleaner. Glass can be very heavy when large, so you will have to use wider frames to hold large sheets of glass.
Do Not Let Glass Touch The Artwork - mats allow a space between art and glass, if glass touches the artwork, it allows condensation, and over time, the image may fog onto the glass. When framing right up to the side of art, (no mats) use spacers (clear or black strips of plastic that disappear beneath the 'rabbit' of the frame and are not visible) to keep the glass elevated.
Regular glass - clearer than window glass, this protects your artwork and collectibles, keeping them free of dust.
Glass with Reflection Control/Non Glare - good for when you will hang your work in a space with a) a lot of windows b) shiny floor c) reflective surfaces such as polished wood, countertops, tile, marble, etc. However, be aware that when you use reflection control glass it can 'fuzz' and soften an image. So reflection control would not be appropriate for art or photos with a lot of detail, or a shadowbox.
UV coated glass when possible always use UV glass. Without UV protection, even in dimly lit spaces, artwork and mats, and in particular signatures, even when made with permanent marker, will fade. You can always upgrade on a frame or a mat, but once the art has faded, it can't be brought back. Anything of value should use UV glass.
Reflection Control UV same fuzzing problem as with non-UV reflection control, use on single-matted artwork only.
Museum Glass right now the most advanced glass made, crystal clear, no reflection, does not fuzz art and provides the most UV protection. *note - Museum glass is spendy, it is almost impossible to cut it down and use the smaller pieces for other framing jobs, because the inner layer (facing inside which a customer would never touch)is easily scratched.
Saving tip perhaps use one fabric mat instead of two mats, use fabric mats and go for a less expensive frame. Beware of shops that offer sales every week, they mark up their costs to create an artifical sale, shop around, custom framing shops have to remain competitive, the plus is they have a wider range of colours and styles of mats and frames, you may be able to get a better look for the same cost or even less expensive than the craft stores.
When To Use Glass if you have artwork on paper without a varnish or type of varnish or any type of laminate, and you want to protect it, use a sheet of glass. If you have needlework, textiles, you may also want to use glass. Oil paintings, arcylic paintings, ceramics, wax resist, paper that is varnished, canvas prints and photos with a varnish do not need glass. You may also use plexi glass, but be aware that plexi scratches easily and you might need a special cleaner. Glass can be very heavy when large, so you will have to use wider frames to hold large sheets of glass.
Do Not Let Glass Touch The Artwork - mats allow a space between art and glass, if glass touches the artwork, it allows condensation, and over time, the image may fog onto the glass. When framing right up to the side of art, (no mats) use spacers (clear or black strips of plastic that disappear beneath the 'rabbit' of the frame and are not visible) to keep the glass elevated.
Regular glass - clearer than window glass, this protects your artwork and collectibles, keeping them free of dust.
Glass with Reflection Control/Non Glare - good for when you will hang your work in a space with a) a lot of windows b) shiny floor c) reflective surfaces such as polished wood, countertops, tile, marble, etc. However, be aware that when you use reflection control glass it can 'fuzz' and soften an image. So reflection control would not be appropriate for art or photos with a lot of detail, or a shadowbox.
UV coated glass when possible always use UV glass. Without UV protection, even in dimly lit spaces, artwork and mats, and in particular signatures, even when made with permanent marker, will fade. You can always upgrade on a frame or a mat, but once the art has faded, it can't be brought back. Anything of value should use UV glass.
Reflection Control UV same fuzzing problem as with non-UV reflection control, use on single-matted artwork only.
Museum Glass right now the most advanced glass made, crystal clear, no reflection, does not fuzz art and provides the most UV protection. *note - Museum glass is spendy, it is almost impossible to cut it down and use the smaller pieces for other framing jobs, because the inner layer (facing inside which a customer would never touch)is easily scratched.
Saving tip perhaps use one fabric mat instead of two mats, use fabric mats and go for a less expensive frame. Beware of shops that offer sales every week, they mark up their costs to create an artifical sale, shop around, custom framing shops have to remain competitive, the plus is they have a wider range of colours and styles of mats and frames, you may be able to get a better look for the same cost or even less expensive than the craft stores.
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Date: 2013-02-03 06:08 am (UTC)BUT - what an interesting array of glass.
(no subject)
Date: 2013-02-03 01:16 pm (UTC)(no subject)
Date: 2013-02-04 01:22 am (UTC)OTH, i can understand wanting to recycle glass from an existing frame, esp if it's a large one.
(no subject)
Date: 2013-02-04 02:38 am (UTC)